Dr Janet Hall

The Boat on the Canal Du Midi

The Boat on the Canal du Midi

Wednesday morning was absolutely miserable in terms of weather. I asked my hostess “where is the sun” and she replied “Probably in Australia”.

John had been fascinated with the idea of going on a boat on the Canal du Midi and this was the obvious best investment of our time. We drove to the offshoot of Agde called Grau de Agde which means “where the river enters the sea”. After booking the boat tix and finding that the only available trip was from 2pm till 6.30pm we sussed out the restaurant options along the quay. It was drizzling rain and we were getting wet in spite of the umbrella so we had to choose under duress.

Thank goodness we were both fixed on having moules and frites (mussels and French fries) which would be hard to muck up – because the Fawlty Towers waiter was not quite focused. I was reminded of the French and Spanish habit of serving chilled red wine when he popped up with a carafe of same and we quickly changed our order to a bottle of room temp.

A motley lot of about 30 people (including us of course) boarded the boat–one couple with the mandatory dog;  they take their pets everywhere and they are allowed even in some restaurants. The little dog looked very miserable as he sat on his lead shaking in either fear or disgust.

The boat approached the first lock which is a round one with about four gates and we were all fascinated to see the water rise on the wall watermark until we were level with the next part of the canal.  The expert captain motored through the very narrow entrance with aplomb whilst talking very fast about the ? (we couldn’t understand the French but gee he sounded good).

We slid along the smooth green canal, loving the light as it filters through the trees on both banks.
There were also diverse dwellings from old mansions to fisherhuts and lots of boats.

I stayed inside the long cabin for most of the trip because it really was cold. There was a TV screen which screened in French at first but eventually played the history of the canal in English and it was very interesting indeed.  It was the vision of one man and he sold it to the king. He never saw the finalization of his dream but his 2 sons took over for him.

We left the canal about half way through the trip to motor across the sea lake to the oyster beds  of Bouzigues (they produce half of the oysters of France). Suddenly a crewman moved through the cabin carrying a tray of oysters and a bottle of wine. The oysters were large and plump and oh so very salty but we very glad to have the thimble-full of wine to wet our whistles .
Can you believe that on a 4 and half hour boat trip there was no shop or kiosk – not even for a can of coke and packet of potato chips? The trip back was long and wearying but I had a book –just need to remember the water bottle next time!

Once off the boat we drove to Bouzigues to dine on the waterfront on more oysters. We shared a platter of 24 oysters,12  mussels, 6 prawns and 6 sea-snails. It sound great but the oysters were too salty, the mussels were raw and the prawns were small and soggy and salty. The snails were like the periwinkles my dear ole Daddy used to pluck from the rocks at Philip Island and would boil them up in a big pot. Anyway it was a food adventure we just had to have and I’ll just say that I prefer the goodies John gets us from the Victoria Market.

The Best French Meal was Greek

Dr Jan’s Europe Trip June/July 2010

Tuesday morning had turned grey and bleak with rain overnight and a wind. We drove to Beziers which was unexpectedly a big and busy major town. We parked before finding the tourist office to get a map so we decided to wing it and walk through the winding narrow streets of the old town. The shops were certainly not old – and items were very expensive. We saw a cathedral and a church. The former was positioned high over the valley. We walked into the back to sit and get the feeling and found ourselves in a funeral. John thought the 3 guys in the very back dressed in black suits were like the Blues Brothers.

Next location for lunch was Agde- a very old town (founded by the Phoenicians?) – and so picturesque by the river Herault. We parked for free just outside the old town and had a fortifying beer in the cafe by the square where the families sat. Then walked down through the town in an attempt to find the restaurant most highly recommended by the Lonely Planet.

Alas it was closed…but to our benefit, because we then sat in a pink restaurant on a barge in the river and the food was fantastic, as was the service. I had a salad and then a mousaka and I reckon it was the best I have ever had. The menu at tourist prices always allows for dessert and so of course I tried the lemon meringue tart and wherever did it go I wondered as I ate the last crumb?

The roof was off the restaurant but no sun so we were very comfortable but oh so needed a siesta. Instead we made the drive home for the siesta which brought us to 6pm and the weather had become so inclement and we were so full of food that we just stayed in the room on our computers and sipped some our hosts excellent wine for the evening.

John was engrossed in researching the history of this Languedoc  area. Having recently seen the new Robin Hood –though set in England of course- we are more immersed in our imaginary worlds of what things might have looked like 1000 years ago. For instance as we visit the places where history tells for instance, of massive killings (Catholics trying to eliminate the Cathar heretics) for religious and avaricious reasons, one can scarcely believe the barbarism.

And back to basics, whenever I walk through  a stone- walled house or castle I can only wonder too , how cold and dirty they must have been – and what about the latrines???

On To The Deep South of France

On to the Deep South of France
DrJan’s Europe Trip June/July 2010

We set off from Uzes at 10.30 on the autoroute “peage” and by 12pm arrived in Sete which is a very picturesque town on the coast. The river was dotted with boats and the houses on the banks were charming. We lucked in a free park at a marina and got our bearings with a beer and peanuts.

Eventually found the Tourist Information to get a map of the area so that we could find Bouziges (where we aimed to have a lunch of oysters on recommendation of James and Anna (John’s brother and sister-in-law had dined there three times they loved it so much). Sadly we had to postpone that lunch as it was already time for lunch in Sete.

We found a quaint little restaurant with a larger than life waitress with a larger than life stressed attitude. It all worked out though with the good old French Tourist Menu -3 courses my goodness.

John had the regional speciality of fish soup with cheese and aioli and I had the foie grois (oh my big canard) for entree. Then we both had the skewer of the most delicate and tiny white squids and 2 prawns. Then I had the last serve of crepes and sugar and John had his staple creme brulee.

Even with great concentration on our excellent printed instructions we still managed to get lost the first time we tried to find our Villa Juliette lodgings in the town of Pezenas but finally put the car into the private yard behind the electric doors. We were delighted with the largish stone pool in the garden and John plunged in as usual to wash away the day’s tensions. I sat relaxing until the house black cat decided to jump onto my lap for a purr.

Our room is lovely though up 2 flights of narrow stairs and not easy to lump suitcases to. We have a great view of the large and very old trees in the garden. We also have a great bathroom with gorgeous blue tiles with white patterns mixed through.

After sampling our hosts white wine at about 12 euros a bottle we went to the old town streets for a walk about 8pm and ended up having a pitcher of rose and a plate of charcuterie to share – no big dinner for us. Need we say how well we slept again?

Last Day in Uzes

Last Day in Uzes
Dr Jan’s Europe Trip June July 2010

Sunday morning in Uzes is quiet and most shops are closed but we enjoyed our pastry in the central square where there was a flower market (that’s why it’s called Place aux Herbes). John was ecstatic about the cactus stall.

It was a cooler day so it was pleasant to take the walking tour and see inside the Cathedral and outside the Duche (which is the duke and duchess of Uzes castle and they still stay there on occasion-their family has lasted over 1,000 years).

John was also ecstatic to find that we could get half a hot chicken (we didn’t need to book our chook after all) to bring home for lunch. So it was straight home for a quick splash in the pool while the sun was still out and then the chicken and salad lunch on the balcony.

It actually misted rain in the afternoon while we had our siesta but was clear for our happy hour at the Fountain for our free wifi at 5.30. Then home again for the last Uzes supper of cheese, terrine and co. We actually watched TV – The Bourne Identity with Matt Damon in French – action movies don’t need a lot of dialogue to make sense.